Rock scrambling grades

Rock scrambling is where hillwalking ends and ends where rock-climbing begins ! It's exhilarating, great fun and where a real sense of achievement is earned. Our favourites are in Torridon, on Ben Nevis's Ledge Route and Carn Mor Dearg arete, An Teallach and the Aonach Eagach.

If you're thinking of booking onto one of our trips involving some rock-scrambling or climbing, please have a read at the outline below. You can also download this as a pdf document from here.

Graded rock-scrambles



Noel Williams, author of many acclaimed guidebooks, gives the description of rock-scrambling as "progress which is too exciting to be just hillwalking, but not difficult enough to be genuine rock-climbing". Below are definitions of rock-scrambling grades in dry, summer conditions as defined by the SMC in their "Skye Scrambles" guidebook, along with a few remarks from us.


Grade 1 : easy rock-scrambles


"This grade of scramble will be fairly straightforward for most experienced hillwalkers. It may be necessary to use the hands occasionally for progress, but the holds will normally be large and the exposure will not be too daunting." The use of a rope is not expected.

To join a guided Grade 1 rock-scrambling day with us, we ask that you are relatively fit and have done a good few hillwalks.


Grade 2 : moderate rock-scrambles


"This grade of scramble will require the hands to be used for more sustained sections. The exposure will be significant, and retreat may be quite difficult." Route finding will also be more tricky than Grade 1. For people with the necessary experience, the use of a rope is not usually expected.

To join us on a Grade 2 rock-scrambling guided day, we ask that you have done at least 3 Grade 1 rock-scrambles and are comfortable moving along such terrain. Ideally you'll have been out with us before on some trips.


Grade 3 : advanced rock-scrambles


"This type of scramble may involve making moves on steep rock in very exposed situations. All but experienced climbers might prefer the protection of a rope in some places. Occasional moves of Moderate rock climbing standard may be encountered. The ability to abseil may be useful if a retreat has to be made." Grade 3 rock-scrambles are effectively Moderate Climbs, and we treat them as such using ropes and relevant climbing gear.

You will need to have done a few Grade 2 rock-scrambles and be comfortable progressing on such terrain, before you can join us on trips which involve Grade 3 rock-scrambling. In addition, you will ideally have been out with us before.


Examples



Below is a list of fine Grade 1 and Grade 2 rock-scrambles that are on the way to popular peaks in Scotland, the Lake District and Snowdonia. It's by no means a definitive list, just a list of routes that we know and like ! Use this list as a helpful guide to pre-requisites for booking onto our guided rock-scrambling days.

Grade 1 rock-scrambles


North
Beinn Alligin, the Horns of Alligin
Beinn Eighe, the Black Carls

West
Lurg Mhor, east top
Forcan Ridge, by-passing the 'bad step'
Beinn Fhada, west ridge (Kintail)
Mullach Fraoch-choire (Cluanie)

Central
Ben Nevis, Ledge Route avoiding initial slab
Ben Nevis, Carn Mor Dearg arete
Mamores, Devil's Ridge
Mamores, An Garbhanach
Mamores, Am Bodach east shoulder
Bidean nam Bian, Gearr Aonach zig-zags
Stob Gabhar, Aonach Eagach
Ben Alder, Short Leachas
Ben Alder, Long Leachas
Beinn a'Bheithir, School House Ridge

East
Cairngorm, Fiacaill Ridge path
Sgor an Lochain Uaine, North East Ridge

South
Ben Cruachan, east ridge incl 'bad step'
Lawers, An Stuc east ridge
Stuc a'Chroin, north-east buttress direct

Skye
Cuillin, Sgurr Dearg from the Memorial Hut
Cuillin, Sgurr nan Eag
Blaven (variations on main 'tourist route')

Other Islands
Rum, Ainshival
Arran, Cir Mhor (east ridge, avoiding difficulties)

Snowdonia
North Ridge, Tryfan
Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach
Crib Goch, Snowdon
Llech Ddu Spur, Carnedd Dafydd
Moel Siabod, South Ridge (probably grade ½)

Lake District
Striding Edge on Helvellyn
Jack's Rake, Pavey Ark
Brown Cove Crags, Helvellyn
Sharp Edge, Blencathra
Halls Fell Ridge, Blencathra
Long Crag, Coniston


Grade 2 rock-scrambles


North
An Teallach, classic traverse avoiding direct pitch on Corrag Buidhe
Liathach, Am Fasarinen Pinnacles
Stac Pollaidh
Suilven, east ridge

West
Forcan Ridge, direct route including 'bad step'

Central
Ben Nevis, Ledge Route including initial slab
Aonach Eagach

East
Cairngorm, Fiacaill Ridge direct

Skye
Cuillin, Am Basteir (east ridge)
Cuillin, Sgurr Mhic Choinnch
Cuillin, Sgurr Dubh Mor
Cuillin, Sgurr Alasdair, south-east ridge

Snowdonia
Cwm Uchaf Horseshoe
Tryfan, East Face
Y Garn, South East Ridge
Llechog Ridge on Snowdon North



Other sources


How to scramble Crib Goch on the BMC
The 5 biggest pitfalls to avoid when scrambling on the BMC
Britain's Best Grade 1 Scrambles on UK Hillwalking
Scotland's best rock-scrambles on Pinterest



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