An Teallach

Hillwalkers heading up the track from Corrie Hallie

Around 12km south of Ullapool, the A832 branches off the main A835 at Braemore junction by the Corrieshalloch gorge and visitor centre. This road climbs over moorland and drops to Dundonnell at the southern tip of Little Loch Broom. Corrie Hallie is situated around 3km south of Dundonnell.

From Braemore Junction on the A835, 18km south of Ullapool, head along the A832 for 21km to Dundonnell. Just past a red phone box there is a layby behind gorse-bush and by the Mountain Rescue building. The route up the two Munro summits starts and ends here.

A route which takes in a traverse of An Teallach's ridge finishes by Corrie Hallie some 4km south east from the start. Parking for this is close to a once bright orange snow-barrier (now more rust coloured than orange), where there is a long layby with room for around 10 vehicles. There are more parking places just to the south of the layby.

Heading up the path aside the Allt a' Mhuilinn

From the lay-by close to the Mountain Rescue building, cross the road and head towards a couple of wooden houses. Immediately before reaching these, leave the road and pick up a mucky path heading through some gorse bushes and then around the back of the houses.

Through a fence and out onto open hillside, the path now rough, worn and loose, begins to climb, gradually turning southwards.

At around a height of 200m, the path splits, either fork will do - the right fork heads up Meall Garbh (see "Sgurr Fiona and return" below), whereas the left fork, my preferred choice, heads through heather and grass towards Coir' a' Mhuilinn.

Follow the path as it gradually leaves the heather and grass behind to continue over loose rocky ground to meet up with the Allt a' Mhuilinn and follows its northern bank. The path crosses the burn then turns south-west and continues uphill following the burn's south-bank.

At 850m, a small cairn is met just east of the bump of Sron a'Choire. From here turn south-east and after gaining a little height, traverse over bouldery ground to reach the bealach below Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill.

Initially keeping to slightly to the west of the crest of Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill's northern shoulder, a steep but straightforward ascent is made tracing a faint path as it twists and turns up loose standstone. The path leads onto the mountain's crest and follows this for the final 50m of ascent to Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill's summit .

Heading up Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill with Glas Mheall Mor behind

Heading up Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill with Glas Mheall Mor behind

On the way up Sgurr Fiona with Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill behind

Leaving the trig point on Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill behind, the path, now very obvious path travels south-west down the crest of the mountain's south-western shoulder. The ground is stoney and loose, but the route is obvious and without event.

Down to the bealach between Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill and Sgurr Fiona, there are some interesting weathered sandstone rock features worth pausing to investigate.

Beyond the bealach lies the ascent of Sgurr Fiona, shorter than that of Bidein a'Ghlas Thuill, but rougher and steeper. There are two main options of ascent, both following faint paths . . .

One option begins by following a path which keeps slightly to the west of the crest of the mountain's northern shoulder and around halfway up, turns to then follow the ridge line.

An alternative route keeps lower, climbing gently below Sgurr Fiona's summit to reach the crest of the mountains western shoulder at a height of around 950m, from where a straightforward clamber up rock continues.

The small cairn on Sgurr Fiona's summit is reached. Views are stupendous with Lord Berkley's Seat and An Teallach's other towers dominating the view ahead.

An Teallach's ridge from Sgurr Fiona

An Teallach's ridge from Sgurr Fiona

Corrag Bhuidhe (© Manny Gorman)

Although possibly best done in a clockwise direction, a traverse of An Teallach's main ridge is a highlight of any Munro-bagging round and a decision on whether or not to tackle it can be made once Sgurr Fiona is summited.

The most significant difficulties on a traverse of the ridge lie immediately south of Corrag Buidhe - a direct ascent or descent of this is graded 'Difficult' in rock climbing terms, though there are easier routes up and down this slightly to the west of a direct route. The stretch between Lord Berkeley's Seat and Corrag Buidhe features some exposed rock scrambling, but of a relatively easy grade. All of this can for the best part be avoided by taking a by-pass path which runs on the west side of the ridge beneath the imposing sandstone towers.

The route . . .

From Sgurr Fiona, a fairly easy descent heading southwards leads down to a bealach, where the striking silhouette of 'Lord Berkeley's Seat' is viewed directly above - a dramatic tower leaning ominously over Coire Toll an Lochain below.

From the bealach, Lord Berkley's Seat and Corrag Buidhe can be by-passed by following a path below the sandstone towers.

Alternatively an ascent of Lord Berkley's Seat is fairly straightforward involving some easy scrambling. The view from the top is not for the faint-hearted - peer carefully over the edge for a breathtaking, and slightly terrifying, view of the dark coire far below !

Continuing from Lord Berkley's Seat along the crest is fairly straightforward to gain Corrag Bhuidhe's summit , although the exposure close to the rim of Coire Toll an Lochain is truly exhilarating. Some more exposed but fairly easy scrambling on sandstone rock and terraces aims over a couple more minor summits and towards one final tower, the top of the Corrag Bhuidhe buttress.

A direct descent of the Corrag Bhuidhe buttress is for climbers and requires the use of a rope. For hillwalkers, the only option is to backtrack to find a route to descend to the by-pass path below.

On the by-pass path, dropping to a bealach , and passing the noteable 'chockstone' on the top of a gully on the way (see pic), terrain becomes easier and the summits of Stob Cadha Gobhlach and Sail Liath pose no further difficulties.

Top of Chockstone Gully (© Manny Gorman)

Top of Chockstone Gully (© Manny Gorman)

Glas Mheall Mor from Sgurr Fiona

In addition to the well-known peaks of the 'classic traverse,' An Teallach boasts three other significant summits: Sgurr Creag an Eich, Glas Mheall Liath, and Glas Mheall Mor.

Exploring the other 'Tops'

Sgurr Creag an Eich lies to the west of Sgurr Fiona separated by a bealach . From the bealach a descent southwards leads by an impressive waterfall flowing through a gorge down to Loch na Sealga, Shenavall and onwards to the peaks of Fisherfield. Alternatively, heading north-west from Sgurr Creag an Eich's summit, a route can be made over heather to reach the Corbett of Sail Mhor.

Glas Mheall Liath is located to the east of Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill. To reach this requires a bit of easy clambering down sandstone boulders over or around a couple of rough summits and a little route finding to gain a col. From there, a walk up boulderfield gains the summit. For those looking for a descent, it is possible to continue eastwards from Glas Mheall Liath down more boulderfield to return towards the roadside.

Glas Mheall Mor lies to the north-east of Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill and is the most accessible of these additional summits, requiring just straightforward hillwalking to reach its peak. Buttresses guard Glas Mheall Mor's northern and eastern aspects.

Escape routes

A couple of escape routes are worth mentioning, should you need to cut a planned route short.

One escape route descends from the col just north of Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill and follows an obvious path down through the corrie of Glas Tholl.

Glas Mheall Liath from Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill

Glas Mheall Liath from Bidein a' Ghlas Thuill