Cruachan Horseshoe

Meall Cuanail and Ben Cruachan above Cruachan Dam

The A85 winds towards Oban, passing along the head of Loch Awe. Just before reaching the narrow Pass of Brander, the Cruachan Power Station stands above the loch's shore, which has a visitor centre well worth stopping at.

The hiking route begins at the roadside near the entrance to the Falls of Cruachan rail halt which is around 300m east of the Cruachan Power Station car-park. There's space for about 10 vehicles to park here, but be sure not to park in the visitor centre car park - you'll likely find yourself locked in!

If the roadside parking is not available, you can alternatively park near the entrance to the road leading up to Cruachan Dam, about 4km east of the rail halt, near some houses in the village of Loch Awe. Starting from here takes you directly to the dam, but does add around 8km to the hike, however this is a great alternative if you'd prefer to cycle up to the dam.

Heading up into Coire Dearg

From the roadside, head up to the rail halt, passing under the railway (watch your head, the opening is low). Follow some steps leading to a fenced-off area with electrical equipment. A rough path then leads gently uphill through lovely birch woods.

As the path steepens, it gradually opens up, offering stunning views over Loch Awe. Continue upwards, clambering over a stile to exit the woods, then crossing a very soggy patch before reaching a track below Cruachan Dam.

Once on the track, you can go in either direction: left leads directly to the western end of the dam, while right leads to the eastern end . There's no issue walking across the dam. From the western end of the dam, follow a good track northwards towards the head of Cruachan Reservoir.

Near the head of the reservoir, the track crosses the burn flowing from Coire Dearg - here a worn, soggy path follows the burn upstream, becoming loose and rocky higher up, but eventually leading to Bealach an Lochain - the col between Meall Cuanail and Ben Cruachan. A tired fence-line crosses the col, just above a small lochan (not marked on OS maps).

From the col, follow an obvious path, initially on loose scree, up Ben Cruachan's southern shoulder. The path travels across a mix of grassy slopes and boulder-strewn sections before reaching the summit , where the remains of a trig point stand.

On the summit of Ben Cruachan, Drochaid Ghlas and Stob Daimh behind

On the summit of Ben Cruachan, Drochaid Ghlas and Stob Daimh behind

Ben Cruachan's 'bad step'

From Ben Cruachan's summit, head northeast along a well-trodden path. Before long, some light scrambling is encountered heading down rocky sections, before continuing on the ridgeline. A second rocky descent soon follows, after which the path flattens briefly. Beyond this lies the infamous 'bad step' of Ben Cruachan.

If an easier route is preferred, a bypass path skirts down to the right. Be cautious, as it's loose underfoot and involves losing some height before rejoining the ridge. However, in dry conditions, tackling the 'bad step' head-on is in my opinion the better option. The climb is less intimidating than it appears, and in the dry, the rock offers fine grip.

Once past the 'bad step,' the terrain eases significantly, with the path weaving along the crest of the ridge through a mix of grassy stretches and rocky patches. After losing around 200m of height, the ground begins to rise again .

To the left lies the Munro Top of Drochaid Ghlas , a worthwhile detour for the stunning views of Ben Cruachan, Taynuilt Peak, and the ridgeline just traversed. Reaching its summit involves some boulder-hopping and descending rocky blocks on the far side. If the focus is solely on bagging Munros, Drochaid Ghlas can be bypassed entirely by traversing grassy terrain on the south side of the ridge.

On the summit of Stob Daimh looking back to Drochaid Ghlas and Ben Cruachan

On the summit of Stob Daimh looking back to Drochaid Ghlas and Ben Cruachan

Heading down Stob Daimh towards Stob Garbh

Leaving the summit of Stob Daimh, head south along the ridge, gradually losing height until you reach the base of Stob Garbh . A short ascent of around 50m leads over this minor summit before a descent to a broad, flat, grass-covered expanse . Turning southwest, the ridge widens and becomes predominantly grassy as it heads down to Lairig Torran - the pass between Stob Garbh and Beinn a' Bhuiridh.

For a direct return, follow the path westward as it descends through increasingly thick grass, eventually crossing a burn lower down . The ground above the shores of Cruachan Reservoir are reached where the path becomes soggy, leading to a set of hydro works. At this point, you can peer through a tunnel to see all the way through the mountain - a fascinating sight! From here, a track is followed back to the eastern end of the Cruachan Dam .

Alternatively, Beinn a' Bhuiridh can be added into the Cruachan Horseshoe route. This hill's dark north face rises above Lairig Torran from where it can be climbed directly. Being a modest 'Corbett', this hill sees much less boot traffic than the rest of the route, therefore isn't a well-defined path, but the grassy slopes provide manageable terrain. Near the summit, the ground becomes rougher, requiring a bit of route-finding to pick the best line to the top .

A straightforward descent heading down Beinn a' Bhuiridh's western slopes, leads down to the hydro works above Cruachan Reservoir.

Stob Dearg (or Taynuilt Peak) from Ben Cruachan

Beyond the main peaks of the Cruachan Horseshoe, three outlying Munro Tops await exploration: Meall Cuanail, Taynuilt Peak (also known as Stob Dearg) and Sron an Isean.

Meall Cuanail
From Bealach an Lochain, a short detour leads to the summit of Meall Cuanail , following a line of old iron posts. If returning to Cruachan Dam from Meall Cuanail, it's best to retrace your steps to Bealach an Lochain before descending. The terrain south of Meall Cuanail is soggy and tiresome.

Taynuilt Peak (Stob Dearg)
The detour from Ben Cruachan to Taynuilt Peak is straightforward. Follow a path westward over stony terrain, descending to a bealach before ascending roughly 100m up similar ground to reach the summit . The effort is well worth it - the westward views from Taynuilt Peak are truly spectacular!

Winter sunset from Meall Cuanail

Winter sunset from Meall Cuanail