Eastern Fannichs

This way to the Fannichs !

This circular route starts and ends from near the northern end of Loch Glascarnoch, by the roadside of the A835, around halfway between Dingwall and Ullapool.

There is a rough parking area on the west side of the bridge over the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh by a small weather station. In summer this car-park can be full, in which case alternative parking can be found in a lay-by around 500m up the road by the southern end of Loch Droma.

Summit of Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li

From the car-park, head east across the bridge over the Abhainn an Torrain Duibh, to where a wooden sign indicates the 'Suggested route' to Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich via Altan Wood. This is also the start of the route up An Coileachan and Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li !

Now on a track, head up it through forestry for around 2km to arrive at the highest point in the track . If you don't fancy bagging the Corbett, Beinn Liath Mhor a' Ghiubhais Li, stick to the track (and skip to section 3).

For Beinn Liath Mhor a' Ghiubhais Li, instead of staying on the track, leave it and strike directly uphill through some tired looking pines and over soggy grass-covered ground. A fence-line is reached and crossed, above which the heather-clad northern slopes of Beinn Liath Mhor a' Ghiubhais Li are hiked up.

Heather gives way to grass and the flat area of Cnap a' Ghiubhais Li, pitted with lochans, is crossed. Beyond the lochans, the hill's gradient steepens again before approaching patches of boulderfield - the summit of Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li is not much further.

On the summit of Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li a circular wall of stone stands surrounding a flat boulder in which a small metal sphere is embedded - remains of a trig point ? Decent views from here over to Ben Wyvis to the east and over to An Teallach in the opposite direction.

On Drochaid a' Ghiubhais Li

On Drochaid a' Ghiubhais Li

Looking up the Abhainn an Torrain Dubh to An Coileachan

To miss out Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li, from the highest point on the track, continue on the track a bit further until a junction is met , with a sign pointing downhill to 'Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich via Footbridge' - follow this and cross the Abhainn a' Ghiubhais Li via the bridge.

Ahead there is an obvious track - stick with this for around 1km to where it turns southwest and becomes fainter. Leave the track at this point and turn southwards to cross fairly pathless and heather-clad ground to reach another bridge to re-cross the Abhainn a' Ghiubhais Li.

Now on the southern bank of the Abhainn a' Ghiubhais Li, strike south-south-west uphill and through deep heather. With height gained, the heather becomes more stunted and progress becomes easier as the ground above the eastern shores of Loch Gorm by Meallan Buidhe is reached - this is where the route from Beinn Liath Mhor a'Ghiubhais Li merges.

A path begins to develop and becomes very obvious as it nears the southern end of the loch and above a short bealach. Cross this bealach and begin hiking up the northern slopes of An Coileachan. The path swings in towards the coire surrounding Lochan Dubh Bhealaich Bhain then quickly disappears. Head directly uphill and by keeping slightly west of the crest of An Coileachan's northern spur, steep ground and boulderfield higher up can be avoided.

On An Coileachan's summit, looking south-east

On An Coileachan's summit, looking south-east

Approaching Meall Gorm

About turn on An Coileachan and re-trace your steps along its broad northern shoulder for 200m or so. Turning north-west, begin to lose height while descending towards Bealach Ban. There are some sections of boulderfield to cross on the descent, but very soon these are left behind.

Upon reaching grassy Bealach Ban , a faint path forms and is followed across the col and uphill. Gradually more and more boulderfield forms as Meall Gorm's minor south-east summit (pt 923m) is reached.

Ruined shelter near Meall Gorm's summit

Ruined shelter near Meall Gorm's summit

Sgurr Mor from the south-east

Continuing north-west along the crest, the path tries to avoid most of the stoney ground while around 100m of height is lost. The path merges with a more defined stalkers path approaching from the south and this is traced as it skirts around the minor bump of Creachan Rairigidh, then heads up the grass-covered slopes of Meall nan Peithirean , with Sgurr Mor in full view ahead.

From this minor top, head north-west and start climbing up the slopes of Sgurr Mor. Another path approaches from the south, crosses the slopes ahead and heads into the coire above Loch an Fhuar Thuill Mhoir. Winter snow lies in this coire, covering the path well into spring.

Solifluction erosion terraces on Sgurr Mor

Solifluction erosion terraces on Sgurr Mor

Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich from Sgurr Mor

About-turn by Sgurr Mor's large cairn retrace your steps for a bit on the path. Keeping to the path, follow it initially southwards around the top of Coireag Barr an Fhialaidh. The path turns eastwards as it zig-zags down grass-covered slopes. After losing around 150m of height, the path encounters bouldery ground and meets with a wall, in which is embedded a small stone shelter .

Beyond the shelter, the wall disappears and a faint path travels north-east over delightful grass-blanketed ground. The damp ground of a bealach below Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich is gained - water-bottles can be refreshed here.

On Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich's summit, looking to An Teallach

On Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich's summit, looking to An Teallach

Descending northwards from Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich

To begin a return to Loch Glascarnoch, one option would be to head northwards from Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich's summit towards the hydro track by the Allt a' Mhadaidh. Given the terrain on this descent, where thick grass hides boulders and divets, this route becomes quite tedious, made worse by ending with a 3km walk along the roadside.

A far better option for return is to head east along Beinn Liath Mhor Fannaich's broad boulder-covered summit, then turn south-east and to drop down to a bealach before the minor summit of Creag Dhubh Fannaich . Occasional sections of path travel between patches of boulders as progress is made descending the ground beyond Creag Dhubh Fannaich, where a defined ATV track is picked up.

Descending Creag Dhubh Fannaich with Beinn Liath Mhor a' Ghiubhais Li ahead

Descending Creag Dhubh Fannaich with Beinn Liath Mhor a' Ghiubhais Li ahead