Rock scrambling grades
Definition of rock-scrambling grades used in Scotland
Rock scrambling is where hillwalking ends and ends where rock-climbing begins - exhilarating, great fun and where a real sense of achievement is earned. Our favourites are in Torridon, on Ben Nevis's North Face and Carn Mor Dearg arête, An Teallach and the Aonach Eagach.Rock-scrambling grades
Noel Williams, author of many acclaimed guidebooks, gives the description of rock-scrambling as "progress which is too exciting to be just hillwalking, but not difficult enough to be genuine rock-climbing". Below are definitions of rock-scrambling grades in dry, summer conditions as defined by the SMC in their "Skye Scrambles" guidebook.
Grade 1 : easy rock-scrambles
"This grade of scramble will be fairly straightforward for most experienced hillwalkers. It may be necessary to use the hands occasionally for progress, but the holds will normally be large and the exposure will not be too daunting." The use of a rope is not expected.
Grade 2 : moderate rock-scrambles
"This grade of scramble will require the hands to be used for more sustained sections. The exposure will be significant, and retreat may be quite difficult." Route finding will also be more tricky than Grade 1. For people with the necessary experience, the use of a rope is not usually expected.
Grade 3 : advanced rock-scrambles
"This type of scramble may involve making moves on steep rock in very exposed situations. All but experienced climbers might prefer the protection of a rope in some places. Occasional moves of Moderate rock climbing standard may be encountered. The ability to abseil may be useful if a retreat has to be made." Grade 3 rock-scrambles are effectively 'Moderate Climbs' - most mountain guides will treat them as such using ropes and relevant climbing gear.
Examples of different rock-scrambling grades
Below is a list of fine Grade 1 and Grade 2 rock-scrambles that are on the way to popular peaks in Scotland, the Lake District and Snowdonia. It is by no means a definitive list, just some routes that myself or friends know and like !
Grade 1 rock-scrambles |
| North |
| Beinn Alligin, the Horns of Alligin |
| Beinn Eighe, the Black Carls |
| West |
| Lurg Mhor, east top |
| Forcan Ridge, bypassing the 'bad step' |
| Beinn Fhada, west ridge (Kintail) |
| Mullach Fraoch-choire (Cluanie) |
| Central |
| Ben Nevis, Ledge Route avoiding initial slab |
| Ben Nevis, Carn Mor Dearg arête |
| Mamores, Devil's Ridge |
| Mamores, An Garbhanach |
| Mamores, Am Bodach east shoulder |
| Bidean nam Bian, Gearr Aonach zig-zags |
| Stob Ghabhar, Aonach Eagach |
| Ben Alder, Short Leachas |
| Ben Alder, Long Leachas |
| Beinn a'Bheithir, School House Ridge |
| East |
| Cairngorm, Fiacaill Ridge path |
| Sgor an Lochain Uaine, North East Ridge |
| South |
| Ben Cruachan, east ridge incl 'bad step' |
| Lawers, An Stuc east ridge |
| Stuc a'Chroin, north-east buttress direct |
| Skye |
| Cuillin, Sgurr Dearg from the Memorial Hut |
| Cuillin, Sgurr nan Eag |
| Blaven (variations on main 'tourist route') |
| Other Islands |
| Rum, Ainshival |
| Arran, Cir Mhor (east ridge, avoiding difficulties) |
| Snowdonia |
| North Ridge, Tryfan |
| Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach |
| Crib Goch, Snowdon |
| Llech Ddu Spur, Carnedd Dafydd |
| Moel Siabod, South Ridge (probably grade ½) |
| Lake District |
| Striding Edge on Helvellyn |
| Jack's Rake, Pavey Ark |
| Brown Cove Crags, Helvellyn |
| Sharp Edge, Blencathra |
| Halls Fell Ridge, Blencathra |
| Long Crag, Coniston |
Grade 2 rock-scrambles |
| North |
| An Teallach, classic traverse avoiding direct pitch on Corrag Buidhe |
| Liathach, Am Fasarinen Pinnacles |
| Stac Pollaidh |
| Suilven, east ridge |
| West |
| Forcan Ridge, direct route including 'bad step' |
| Central |
| Ben Nevis, Ledge Route including initial slab |
| Aonach Eagach |
| East |
| Cairngorm, Fiacaill Ridge direct |
| Skye |
| Cuillin, Am Basteir (east ridge) |
| Cuillin, Sgurr Mhic Choinnch |
| Cuillin, Sgurr Dubh Mor |
| Cuillin, Sgurr Alasdair, south-east ridge |
| Snowdonia |
| Cwm Uchaf Horseshoe |
| Tryfan, East Face |
| Y Garn, South East Ridge |
| Llechog Ridge on Snowdon North |
