South Glen Shiel Ridge

Looking along the western end of Loch Cluanie

The A87 begins its scenic journey at Invergarry, branching off from the A82 in the heart of the Great Glen, and heads westward toward Kintail, eventually reaching the Isle of Skye.

The road runs alongside the expanse of Loch Cluanie, held at its eastern end by a dam. At the western end of the loch lies the welcoming Cluanie Inn, where the route finishes. Here, you may want to have a bike planted or arrange other forms of return transport back to the starting point.

Just over 10 km west of the inn is the site of the Battle of Glen Shiel, where the A87 crosses the River Shiel, marking the beginning of this route. There is a long layby with an information board on the north side of the river and another smaller layby on the south side.

There are some other points for starting or finishing a South Glen Shiel Ridge traverse and these are briefly detailed in section 10.

A little rock-clambering awaits when nearing the summit of Creag nan Damh

There are two main options for beginning the ascent of Creag nan Damh from the roadside near the Glenshiel Battle site.

Option 1: Old Forestry Track The first option starts from an old forestry track, located just west of the layby on the south side of the River Shiel. Initially, this path seems promising, but it quickly becomes boggy as it climbs. By the time you near the forest edge, the track turns into a waterlogged mess, forcing you to hop between dry patches, trying to keep your boots dry - a real challenge for those not keen on soggy feet and therefore not an ideal start to a long day on the hills !

Option 2: Riverbank Route A more enjoyable, and drier, route begins by heading east from the layby toward the bridge over the River Shiel. Here, drop down to the river's southern bank and follow the edge of the forest as it bends southeast. A faint path begins to form, leading you higher up until you encounter a deer fence, which is easily crossed via a stile. Shortly thereafter, the path meets with the stalker's path emerging from the forest .

The stalker's path leads southward, climbing gently to meet the small streams flowing down from either side of Creag nan Damh's north-eastern shoulder.

Crossing one of the streams, the path disappears and you're on grassy terrain. Head southwards, keeping to delightful grass-covered ground between the burns gaining around 100m of ascent. Gradually turn south-west and onto Creag nan Damh's north-eastern shoulder. As you ascend, a faint path forms, guiding you toward the summit plateau. There's only one rocky section requiring a brief hands-on scramble, but it's nothing too difficult.

Upon reaching the undulating summit plateau, it's just a short, satisfying stroll to the small cairn perched on the rocky blades marking the top of Creag nan Damh .

On Creag nan Damh's summit looking east

On Creag nan Damh's summit looking east

Sgurr Beag and Sgurr an Lochain from Bealach Fraoch Choire

Leaving Creag nan Damh's cairn behind, head southeast and pick up the well-defined path that zigzags down the ridge. The descent involves a bit of twisting and turning, with some easy clambering down a couple of little slabs, but it's all straightforward as you make your way down to the flat expanse of Bealach Fraoch Choire, dotted with its serene little lochans.

Crossing the bealach, the path begins to climb again, this time up Sgurr Beag. Partway up, you'll spot a metal post marking the spot where many hikers choose to bypass this peak, as it's not a Munro. The bypass path contours around the slope, staying fairly level, and crosses a small stream - a perfect spot to top up your water bottles - before rising gently to rejoin the ridge at Bealach a' Choire Reidhe , the col beyond Sgurr Beag.

But don't be too quick to skip Sgurr Beag ! Despite its non-Munro status, it feels like a natural part of the ridge, and missing it somehow feels incomplete. The ascent adds only about 100m of extra climbing, and a path follows an old wall almost all the way to the summit, before descending the other side. The extra effort is well worth it for the more complete ridge experience.

On Sgurr an Lochain, looking back over Creag nam Daimh to the Forcan Ridge

On Sgurr an Lochain, looking back over Creag nam Daimh to the Forcan Ridge

Sgurr an Doire Leathain from near Bealach Sgurr an Lochain

From the summit of Sgurr an Lochain, follow the well-worn path heading southeast, tracing the line of old iron posts as the route begins its descent towards Bealach Sgurr an Lochain. To the left and below is Coire an Lochain - the only north-facing corrie on the ridge with a substantial lochan. On route to the bealach there are some dramatic rock features and a little easy scrambling.

On the far side of the bealach, the path rises again, sticking close to the remnants of an old stone wall as it climbs along the ridge towards Sgurr an Doire Leathain's flat-topped summit. This peak stands out from the others on the ridge, as it's the only one that requires a slight detour to reach its summit. Interestingly, the line of iron posts and the old wall continue to follow the ridge, bypassing the summit altogether.

Looking back to Sgurr an Lochain from Sgurr an Doire Leathain

Looking back to Sgurr an Lochain from Sgurr an Doire Leathain

Maol Chinn-dearg above the by-pass path around Sgurr Coire na Feinne

After taking in the views from Sgurr an Doire Leathain's summit, about-turn and rejoin the line of iron posts. Heading southeast, the path follows the edge of crags that overlook Coire a' Chuill Droma Mor. Further on, the ridge broadens, and the path gradually descends towards Bealach Caol na Droma Moire .

Ahead lies Sgurr Coire na Feinne , with the iron posts leading up to its modest summit. This point also offers an "escape route" off the ridge (details in section 10 below).

However, like Sgurr Beag earlier, Sgurr Coire na Feinne is not a Munro, and there's a bypass path for those who prefer to skirt around it. This bypass path crosses beautiful grassy terrain as it leads directly towards Bealach Caol na Droma Bige. Shoud you prefer to to climb over Sgurr Coire na Feinne, it adds a mere 30m of ascent.

Approaching Maol Chinn-dearg's summit, Sgurr an Doire Leathain behind

Approaching Maol Chinn-dearg's summit, Sgurr an Doire Leathain behind

On the way to Aonach air Chrith

From Maol Chinn-dearg's summit, a potential "escape route" heads northeast off the ridge (more details in Section 10 below).

To continue along the ridge towards Aonach air Chrith, follow the clear path southeast. The trail descends gradually along the edge of a corrie, skirting cliffs and crags before briefly rising to a minor summit.

Clambering up some rock approaching Aonach air Chrith's summit

Clambering up some rock approaching Aonach air Chrith's summit

On route to Druim Shionnach

Up to Aonach air Chrith, the route largely follows well-defined ridges, with a well-worn path beside an old wall or line of rusty fence posts guiding the way. The summits tend to blend together, each with a similar feel and steady rhythm.

However, beyond Aonach air Chrith, the terrain shifts, giving the remaining Munros - Druim Shionnach and Creag a' Mhaim - a more distinct character.

From Aonach air Chrith's summit, head southeast, descending along a worn path that traces the mountain's shoulder. As you lose height, the ridge broadens, leading to a col . Here, briefly turn north east to climb out of the col, then head east to cross a wide, grass-covered plateau, with the path keeping well away from the cliffs of Coire an t-Slugain until Druim Shionnach's west top is reached.

Looking back to Aonach air Chrith from Druim Shionnach

Looking back to Aonach air Chrith from Druim Shionnach

Creag a' Mhaim from Druim Shionnach

Druim Shionnach offers a dramatic overlook of the rugged Coire nan Leac, where, in autumn, the bellowing of deer echoes around the lochan, adding to the wild atmosphere of the landscape.

From Druim Shionnach, continue eastward along the ridge, which narrows significantly and becomes rocky. A bit of caution is needed here as the path weaves from the south side of the ridge to the north and back again.

Once past the rocky section, the ridge broadens, and you'll descend gradually on a faint path that crosses grassy terrain mixed with patches of stony ground. Soon, you'll reach the col between Druim Shionnach and Creag a' Mhaim. From here, it's just a short, steady climb up the obvious path to the substantial cairn marking Creag a' Mhaim's summit .

Coire nan Leac and Druim Shionnach from Creag a' Mhaim

Coire nan Leac and Druim Shionnach from Creag a' Mhaim

Looking back up to the ridge on the descent down Creag a' Mhaim's northern shoulder

There are a couple of options available to descend Creag a' Mhaim and aim back to Cluanie Inn

Direct descent down Creag a' Mhaim's northern shoulder:

Re-trace your steps for a few metres, then head north-east on a faint path descending quite steeply that turns to drop sharply into Coirean an Eich Bhric.

The path continues down, gradually becoming more soggy underfoot as it travels into heather and reaches a deer-fence. Over the fence, to lose another 100m or so to reach another stile by the bridge over the Allt Giubhais for a wander down the old road back to the roadside by Cluanie Inn.

Descend via a stalker's path :

A gentler descent off the end of the South Glen Shiel Ridge can made by taking the stalker's path that aims down Creag a' Mhaim's south-eastern shoulder. This well-defined path twists down to the old road at around 400m elevation.

Heading back to Cluanie on the old road

Heading back to Cluanie on the old road

The halfway start point in Glen Shiel

Splitting the South Glen Shiel Ridge into two shorter routes :

If a route bagging the South Glen Shiel Ridge in one go sounds a bit daunting, then it can be split into two shorter hikes. To do this, begin just over 3 km west of Cluanie Inn, near the highest point on the Glen Shiel road. There is a layby on the roadside here, opposite which a stalker's path drops to a wooden sign (see picture).

Eastern Section: Follow the left fork of the path, which leads up Druim Coire nan Eirecheanach, passing by a curious lochan perched at the top of a landslip and onto Maol Chinn-dearg . From here, you can bag the eastern Munros of the ridge as detailed above.

Western Section: The right fork leads up Druim Thollaidh and onwards to Sgurr Coire na Feinne . From there, you can tackle the western Munros in reverse of the route described above.

South Glen Shiel Ridge from Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais

South Glen Shiel Ridge from Sgurr a' Bhac Chaolais